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In the raw young soils of Stonecroft's
Mere Road vineyard, faith was at least as important as Alan Limmer's doctorate
in soil science, faith in the potential of the soils of the old river
bank which is now his vineyard, but also in his own feel for what wines
could grow there.
That feel is a key to the individual character of Stonecroft and its wines, for while Alan followed the mainstream of fine wine-growing taking shape in New Zealand by planting Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, he also indulged his passion for wines made from Syrah and Gewürztraminer. Syrah had been grown successfully in New Zealand pre 1900, but in
the modern era it had been tried and failed, yet Alan considered the
especially hot conditions in the Stonecroft vineyard
would ripen it to the elegant muscularity he admired in the wines of
Hermitage. He also made space for Gewürztraminer, in spite of this variety's local performance as a shy producer of innocuous wines out of character with its flamboyant reputation. Believing that small crops are essential when producing high quality wine, Alan felt the vineyard conditions were ideal for getting his grapes fully ripe, and if so, Gewürztraminer, like Syrah, would be grown in the vineyard if it was to be successful in the winery. That his faith has been rewarded is now part of New Zealand wine history. Stonecroft Syrah and Gewürztraminer have been such emphatic examples of high quality, new interest has been stimulated in both. Alan also developed another site on the further side of the narrow valley from his first vineyard. Here he has planted exclusively red wine varieties, with significant portions of Syrah and some experimental Zinfandel (New Zealand's first), leaving space for more white varieties, especially Gewürztraminer, at Mere Road. Both sites are hot and dry, with peak summer temperatures consistently between 35C and 40C - marginally higher at the new vineyard which is sheltered from cool southerly winds. These are perfect conditions for emphatic red wines, rich in the tannins that Alan believes are essential for the highest quality reds. Syrah is naturally high in colour with clear varietal expression, and the classic, opulent, soft mid-palate which is such a feature of the variety. Cabernet Sauvignon, too, is deeply coloured with big tannins and typically ripe, blackberry flavours with high fruit weight and strong, firm structure. Even the usually soft Merlot has firm tannins here, as well as rich, plummy/cherry flavours. The theme at Stonecroft is intensity, of purpose
as much as of flavour. The intention is always to do the best possible,
from the first winter pruning to the final fining - to grow and fashion
wine that has the potential to be great - wines with huge personality
from a small estate. |
In keeping with the strength of the reds, the vineyard produces big,
assertive whites. The very intense, compact, fat Chardonnays are softer
in acid than many Hawkes Bay styles. Gewürztraminer is invariably dramatic,
with powerful spice and floral characters. Stonecroft
wines are not for fragile palates, but the winery style is to shape
this substance with craft and subtlety, introducing the elegance that
is the hallmark of fine wine.
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Alan and Glen Limmer
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